Porto Sant Elphidio

Friday 4 July
Up early, checked out and on the road by 9, driving with the engine flap open as part of our attempt to forestall the bus stalling when the mercury rises. We travel a beautiful scenic, hilly windy route, directed by the SatNav and inevitably involving some massive climbs. As usual, these are always a bit of a wing n a prayer and arrive, palms sweating and nails bitten, at the top. Have a big rest at the summit to cool the bus down. Discover we couldve gone a flat route...bloomin satnav...Anyway, arrive, after a good few rests and flaps to the wind, 4 hours later in Porto Sant Elphidio, a distance of 98 miles(!). PSE is an unremarkable strip in Le Marche, an area that we have been before but it is the only way out of Umbria towards the south. What passes for a beach has eroded so much they have had to top it up with gravel and half the number of sun loungers. Pitch up at the site, another babydancemonster though it is all tucked away out of earshot. We are soon hemmed in by other vans, in particular an annoying group of 4 families altogether who see us as a through road and regularly appear through our washing line while we are having breakfast. Chipper and friendly, they greet us but we are northern Europeans who dont like our personal space invaded so. The whole idea of battling to find spaces during August is beginning to get us down. Every stretch of Italian coast is seemingly developed, private beaches and sun loungered beyond recognition. And there dont seem to be campsites inland further south. We are always camping a few miles outside of town and so we do spend a lot of time onsite, and are both totally overdosed on beachside campsite living, the people, the food, and what passes for entertainment. Hiring a cottage seems totally out of our budget. We think we would perk up if we went somewhere else entirely. Decide to enjoy a few days on the beach here and then head to France.

Tuesday 8 July
After a few nights recharging on the disappearing beach, we both feel a bit more philosophical about things. If we turned back now without seeing the whole country it would be with heavy heart, a bit like going to the UK and seeing Kent and Essex but missing Cornwall and the Lake District. I have a sense that the best is yet to come and Jon is feeling much more positive about it too. We turn Vera to face Abruzzo Molise and drive to Vasto, a fine old city.